Sewing machine



Jan. 16, 1934. A. H. DE VOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1931 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 lq lkil IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII L -IllIIllllllllllll INVENTOR- Jan. 16, 1934. A. H. DE VOE 1,943,301

SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1931 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR- BY Btu/WM? V ATTORN Y- Jtli. 16, 1934. A. H. DE VOE 1,943,301

SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1931 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTOR EY- A. H. DE VOE Jan. 16, 1934.

SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 14, 1931 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 4s P1 I l INVENTOR- Patented- Jan. 16, 1934 UNITED STATES SEWING MACHINE Albert H. De Voe, Westfleld, N. J.

Application September 14, 1931 Serial No. 562,753

34 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and it has as its primary object to render available a sewing machine adapted mechanically to form and securely to stitch a relatively narrow rolled hem on relatively light weight material in simulation of the so-called hand-rolled edge now commonly used on various articles of manufacture, such for example, as on the bottoms of ladies dresses, handkerchiefs, etc., in place of the relatively wide hems previously used.

The hand-rolled edge now in vogue, consists of a narrow rolled edge stitched to the body fabric at widely spaced intervals so as to render the stitches substantially invisible. This finish, as its name implies, heretofore has been made by manually rolling inwardly the marginal portion of the body fabric, thereby forming a relatively narrow roll enclosing the raw edge of the fabric. This roll frequently is not greater than 1 6 inch in width. To maintain the roll in place on the body fabric, and to prevent it from unrolling during use, it is subsequently stitched to the body fabric. Inasmuch as the appearance of stitches on the outside of the finished product is undesirable, and in the absence of any sewing machine capable of satisfactorily doing this work, it has been customary and necessary to stitch the rolled edge to the body fabric by hand sewing. Each of the various types of available blind-stitch sewing machines has been tried for this particular operation but none has been capable of satisfactorily performing it. Hand stitching of the rolled edge has, therefore, necessarily continued to be employed.

As is well recognized, hand sewing is a relatively slow and tedious operation. Consequently, it is unduly costly and, therefore, in quantity production, is avoided whenever and wherever possible. The present invention provides a sewing machine capable of automatically and rapidly rolling the edge of a fabric and stitching the rolled edge at spaced intervals by inconspicuous stitches. thus producing a product similar in appearance to the hand made product and which is equally acceptable to the trade.

The primary object of this invention has been attained by the provision of a sewing machine embodying, in advance of a reciprocating needle, a hemmer adapted, during the feed of the fabric through the machine, to produce a rolled edge on the inside of the fabric similar to that heretofore formed by hand. During the passage of the'xfabric through the machine, the reciprocating needle is caused to engage both the rolled edge and the body fabric thereby to stitch the roll to the inside of the body fabric. Preferab'y, after each stitch is formed, the needle is caused to effect a plurality of reciprocations without engaging the body fabric, thus forming a plurality of twists or loops 60 in the needle thread and the complemental lower thread between successive stitches. Inasmuch as the material is advanced by the feed after each reciprocation of the needle this produces widely spaced relatively small stitches which are practically invisible on the outside of the fabric.

This hit and miss of the body fabric by the needle is effected by producing a relative lateral movement between needle and the fabric. Preferably, and as shown in the drawings, this is effected by shifting the fabric relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle. This, however, is not essential as it is perceived that this also may be effected by shifting the needle laterally relative to the fabric, and such construction is herein contemplated.

Means is provided for so positioning the body fabric relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle on its stitch stroke that, except when handling extremely thin material, the needle may be caused to split the fabric, entering and emerging from the same side thereof without passing therethrough. This, as is well understood, will produce a blind stitch which is wholly invisible on the outside of the fabric.

One of the features of this invention which renders the present machine particularly adaptable for the work hereinbefore described, is the combination with the usual sewing machine feed, of an auxiliary feed mechanism adapted to feed the fabric in a direction transverse to the direction of feed of the main feed mechanism. While this combination of feeds and various other features of the present invention are particularly useful for the purpose herein described, it is recognized that their utility is in nowise limited to this work and that they may be used to advantages for various other purposes.

Another feature of this invention resides in the provision of a plurality of presser devices 00- operating with said feeding mechanisms, one of said presser devices being laterally shiftable and providing an inclined surface over which the fabric is folded, to enable the needle to engage or miss the fabric, as above described.

Other objects and advantages will be in part indicated in the following description and in part rendered apparent therefrom in connection with the annexed drawings.

To enable others skilled in the art so fully to apprehend the underlying features hereof that they may embody the same in the various ways contemplated by this invention, drawings depicting a preferred typical construction have been annexed as a part of this disclosure and, in such drawings, like characters of reference denote corresponding parts throughout all the views, of which: v

Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section of a sewing machine embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a bottom view of the machine shown in F18. 1.

Fig. 3 is a left end view of Fig. 1 with a portion of the head broken away.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a portion of the work the invention is disclosed as embodied in a sewing machine comprising a bed or work plate 1 supporting the usual standard 2, overhanging arm 3 and head 4. Within the arm there is journaled a main shaft 5, driven by a belt pulley p, and which, at its forward end actuates, through suitable mechanism, a reciprocable needle-bar 6 and a conventional thread take-up 7. At its lower end, the needle-bar carries an eye-pointed needle 8 which cooperates with a suitable complemental element, such for example as a rotary loop-taker 9 located beneath the work plate and carrying a conventional bobbin case 9 and thread bobbin 9 to form stitches. The loop-taker is driven by a rotary shaft 10 journaled in bearings 11 and 12 on the underside of the bed plate. Rotary motion is transmitted to the shaft 10 from the main shaft 1 by a belt 13 fitted to a driving pulley 14 on the main shaft and engaging a pulley 15 fixed upon the rear end of the loop-taker shaft 10. Beneath the work: plate there is arranged a suitable four-motion feed mechanism for advancing fabric to the stitch forming mechanism, in the direction indicated by the arrow at in Fig. 4. This feed-mechanism comprises a main feed-bar 16 having one end journaled on a pin 17 carried by arms 18 projecting upwardly from an oscillatory feed drive shaft 19, journaled on pintles 20, supported in lugs 21 formed integral with the bed plate.

oscillatory motion is given to the shaft 19 by means of a pitman 22 embracing, at its upper end, an adjustable eccentric 23, carried by the rotary main shaft and connected at its lower end with an arm 24 fixed upon the shaft 19. From the foregoing it will be understood that rotation of the main shaft 1 will, through the connections described, effect reciprocation of the main feed-bar 16. The extent of reciprocation of the main feed-bar, and thereby the length of feed, may be regulated by varying the eccentricity of the eccentric 23 relative to the main shaft. This may be effected by rotation of the knurled nut 25 located adjacent the belt pulley p. Inasmuch as this feed regulator forms no part of the present invention, detailed illustration and description thereof is deemed unnecessary.

The forward end of the main feed-bar 16 is formed as a fork 16 which embraces a block 26 carried by anarm 27, fixed upon a feed-lift rock shaft 28. This shaft is journaled on pintles 29, secured in lugs 30 formed integral with the bed plate. At its rearward end the shaft 28 has formed integral therewith an arm 31, connected to the lower end of a pitman 32, which, at its upper end, embraces an eccentric 33 fixed to the main shaft. Thus it will be seen that rotation of the main shaft also effects, through the mechanism described, rising and falling movements of the main feed-bar and to the main feed-dog I", carried thereby. The rising and falling movements of the feed-bar and feed-dog, and the backward and forward movements thereof. are so coordinated that they effect feeding of the fabric toward the needle.

As hereinbefore stated, this machine also is provided with a second, or auxiliary feed mechanism for feeding the fabric in a direction transverse to the direction of feed effected by the main feed mechanism. This second feed mechanism comprises a second feed-bar 34, arranged lengthwise of the bed plate, and carrying, at its forward end, a second feed dog F". The rearward end of the feed-bar 34 is pivotally connected at 34* with a vertically arranged stud 35, carried by one arm 36* of a bell-crank lever 36 fulcrumed on a stud 37 fixed in the work plate. The other arm 36', of the bell-crank lever 36, is pivotally connected with a sleeve 38 Joumaled upon the pin 17 between the arms 18 of the feed drive shaft 19. Thus, oscillation of that shaft to reciprocate the main feed-bar 16 in the directions indicated by the double pointed arrow b (Fig. 2), will cause the bell-crank lever 36 to be oscillated as indicated by the double pointed arrow 0. This will effect endw'ise reciprocation of the second feedbar 34, and the feed-dog F" carried thereby, in a path transverse to the path of movement of main feed-bar and the main feed-dog F. The arm 36' is preferably made in two parts adjustably secured by screws t as shown in Fig. 2. This permits lengthwise adjustment of the arm to vary the feed stroke of the feed-dog F relative to the stroke of the dog F. As shown in Fig. 5 the second feed-bar 34 overlies and engages the main feed-bar 16 and is held downwardly thereon by any suitable means, such for example as the leaf spring 34 secured to the feed-bar and underlying the throat plate 43. Thus the feed-bar 34 will partake of the rising and falling movements of the feed bar 16. It will, therefore, be obvious that the secondary feed mechanism is actuated by the same means which actuates the primary feed mechanism and that said feed mechanisms will be actuated in unison. Preferably, however, the extent of movement of the secondary feed will be slightly greater than that of the main feed. This serves to prevent any fulling of the fabric at the stitching point thereby maintaining the fabric taut where engaged by the needle.

Slidingly fitted in the head 4 is the usual spring-pressed presser-bar 39, to the lower end to effect feed of the fabric. The amount of pressure with which the foot opposes the feed-dog may be regulated by the adjustable nut 39 at the top of the machine head as is common in sewing machines. The presser-foot 42 is formed with a needle aperture 42 aligned with a similar aperture 43 in a throat-plate 43 supported by the bed 1, and a guard wire 42 adapted to prevent accidental contact of the operator's fingers with the needle. A rod 44, fixed to the shank or the presser foot and fitted to an aperture in the block j- 45, surrounding the rod 44 and located between the block and a collar 46 on the rod 44, normally maintains the shank of the presser-foot in the notch 41 but permits the rod to be moved endwise to disengage the shank from the notch, thereby to permit the foot to be swung laterally out of its operative position.

Fulcrumed on a screw stud 4'7, carried by the block 40, is a lever 48 which carries, at its lower end, a roller 49 adapted to bear upon and depress a second presser member 50, later to be described. A coil spring 51, having one end in engagement with the upper end of the lever 48 and its other end abutting against the head 52 of an adjusting stud 53, threaded into an upstanding portion 4O of the block 40, serves yieldingly to maintain the roller 49 depressed. An adjustable stop-screw 54 limits the downward movement of the roller 49. The presser members 42 and constitute, in effect, a compensating presser device, the relative pressures of which may be varied by adjustment of either the nut 39 or the head 52 of the adjusting stud 53.

Located in advance of the needle and slightly to one side thereof, as shown in Fig. 4, is the scroll it of a roll hemmer H, which may be secured to the presser member 50 by screws 55,

as shown in the drawings, or if desired, it may be secured to the bed-plate or other suitable support. This hemmer is adapted to receive the marginal portion of a fabric, which preferably is placed upon the base-plate h thereof with its inside face uppermost, and to fold the edge first upwardly, then over the body fabric, andthen inwardly to form a hem on the inside of the fabric as it is fed toward the needle, by the feed-dog F. The second feed-dog F is preferably arranged to engage the hem after it has been stitched to the body fabric thereby forming a reinforced edge which will effectively withstand the action of the feed without distortion.

Beneath the hemmer H, and above the feeddog F there is arranged a plate 50 which is best shown in Fig. 6. This plate serves both as a presser device to hold the fabric in engagement with the second feed-dog F and also as a turning or folding device for the fabric as it passes from one feed mechanism to the other, as later will be described. As shown in the drawings, the two feed mechanisms are adapted to feed the fabric in directions substantially perpendicular to each other. The plate 50 is formed with a projecting portion 50 having an edge 50 arranged at an angle to the paths of movement of the two feed-dogs F and F and intersecting both of said paths. The fabric and its rolled edge are adapted to be folded over the edge 50* and beneath the portion 50 as indicated by the arrow 11 in Fig. 6, thus causing the fabric to be inverted and fed away from the needle in the direction indicated by the arrow e in Fig. 4 by the second feed mechanism. As the fabric and its rolled edge are passed over the edge 50 they are, on certain reciprocations of the needle, engaged by the needle, and a stitch is formed therein, thereby stitching the innermost edge of the roll to the body fabric. On other reciprocations of the needle, relative movement between the plate 50 and the needle so places the edge 50 and the fabric folded thereover, that the needle will not engage the fabric or its rolled edge. In these latter reciprocations of the needle the hook takes the needle thread loop and passes it about the bobbin, but in the absence of the fabric no stitch is formed. Instead, the needle and bobbin threads are merely twisted together at each reciprocation of the needle until the fabric is again engaged by the needle, as hereinbefore stated this may be effected either by lateral movement of the needle or of the plate 50. Preferably it is effected, as shown in the drawings, by shifting the plate. To that end the plate is supported by a rocking member, designated generally as 55, fulcrumed intermediate its ends on a rod 56 fixed in the lug 11, projecting downwardly from the work plate. This member is oscillated in timed relation with the reciprocation of the needle to cause the needle to engage and miss the fabric in a predetermined cycle. For convenience of manufacture, the member may be made up of a plurality of elements including a substantially U- shaped member 57 which straddles the lug 11, a rearwardly extending arm 58 secured to one leg of U-shaped member, a forwardly extending arm 59 secured to the other leg of the member 55 and a vertically arranged member 60 adjustably mounted on the arm 59. The upper end of the member 60 extends through an aperture 43 in the throat plate and has fixed thereto one end of a flexible rod 61 the other-end of which carries a plate 62 to which the plate 50 is secured by screws 63. The plate 50 thus partakes of the rocking movements of the member 55 and, through the flexible support provided by the rod 61, is separately adjustable relative thereto for a purpose later to be explained.

Oscillatory motion is given to the member 55 from the rotary movements of the loop-taker shaft 10, as now will be described. Fixed upon the shaft 10, adjacent to the bearing lug 11, is a worm 64 which meshes with and drives a worm-wheel 65 rotatably journaled on a screwstud 66 threaded into the bed plate. To the underside of the worm-wheel there is secured a disk or plate 67 provided with a plurality of cam portions or elements 68, adapted, upon rotation of the worm-wheel and disk 67, periodically to engage a roller 69 carried by a laterally extending portion of the arm 58. A torsional spring '70, surrounding the rod 56 and having one end 12 engaging the arm 58 and the other end secured in a collar 71 secured upon the rod 56, serves to swing the member 55 clockwise, as viewed in Fig.

3, thereby to maintain the roller 69 in the path of the cam elements 68. Movement of the mem- 125 ber 55,'and the plate 50 carried thereby, under the influence of the spring, is limited by a stop screw '72, adjustably mounted in a plate '13 secured to the arm 58, engaging the underside of the disk 67. Thus the amount of oscillation of the mem- 1 ber 55, and thereby the amount of reciprocation of the plate 50 toward and from the front edge of the bed plate, may be controlled and regulated.

Means, now to be described, also is provided for adjusting the plate 50 relative to its support and 135 transversely of the path of movement of the main feed-dog F, to position the turning edge 50 relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle, in accordance with the thickness of the fabric being handled. This adjustment is made 140 possible due to the flexibility of the rod 61 to which the plate 50 is connected. Fixed to a stationary part of the machine, such, for example,

as the bed-plate 1, or a cover plate 74 secured thereto, is a bracket 75 having rotatably mounted therein a pin '76, carrying at its lower end an eccentric portion 77. This eccentric is fitted to an aperture 78 formed in a block "79 to which the plate 50 is also connected. The block 79, and its attached plate 50, are free to oscillate slightly about the portion 77 as the plate is reciprocated back and forth toward and from the needle. This oscillation of the plate is permitted due to the fact that it is mounted on the flexible rod 61. Thus, by rotation of the pin 76 and eccentric 77, the plate 50 may be adjusted laterally. A pointer 80 fixed to the upper end of the pin cooperates with a scale 81 on the bracket to indicate the position of adjustment of the plate.

'I'o permit the forward end of the plate 50 to be raised slightly by the action of the feed-dog F the plate is preferably connected with the block '79 by a hinge joint shown as comprising a pin 82 journaled in the block 79 and fixed in a block 83 secured to the plate 50, as by screws 84. During operation of the machine: the spring pressed roller 49 bears upon the plate 50 and holds it yieldingly depressed in opposition to the feeddog F Arranged behind the needle and overlying a portion of the second feed-dog F is an auxiliary presser foot 85 carried by a flexible horizontally disposed shank 86 secured upon the plate 50, as by screws 87. Upon initial insertion of the fabric the forward edge thereof passes beneath the foot 85 and is engaged by the portion f of the feed-dog F This serves to feed the edge transversely to its movement by the feed-dog F thereby folding the fabric about the edge 50 after which it continues to be fed thereabout -by the action of the feed-dog F acting in conjunction with the presser plate 50.

To position the rolled edge relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle so that the needle will take the desired bite there is provided a rollguide comprising a plate 88 pivotally mounted, intermediate its ends, on a screw 89 threaded into the presser plate 50. One end ofthe plate is depressed and extends through an aperture 90 in the plate 50 and under the plate adjacent the fabric folding edge 50 thereof, in the form of a roll guiding finger 91 which functions as an edge guide. The opposite end of the plate is in the form of a pointer 92 which cooperates with a scale 93 provided by the presser plate. A clamp screw 94, passing through an enlarged aperture in the roll guide and threaded into the plate 50, serves to maintain the roll guide in the desired adjusted positions as indicated by the scale 93.

Although this invention has been shown and described in connection with a lock-stitch sewing machine it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to that particular type of sewing machine, that it readily may be embodied in a chain stitch machine, and such embodiment is herein contemplated. Likewise the use of a straight reciprocating needle is not essential.

Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of this invention that others can, by applying current knowledge, readily adapt it for various utilizations by retaining one or more of the features that, from the standpoint of the prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of either the generic or specific aspects of this invention and, therefore, such adaptations should be,-and are intended to be, comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalency of the following claims.

Having thus revealed this invention, I claim as new and desire to secure the following combinations and elements, or equivalents thereof, by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding mechanism for feeding a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; and a second feeding mechanism spaced from said first feeding means in the path of travel of the fabric and operable simulta-- neously with the first feed mechanism, for feeding the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination with stitch forming mecahnism, a plurality of cooperating and simultaneously operable transversely arranged feeding mechanisms spaced apart in the path of travel of the fabric successively engaging the same portions of the fabric and serving to feed said fabric relative to the stitch forming mechanism, in transverse directions arranged at an angle materially less than a straight angle.

3. In asewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a first feeding mechanism including a first feed-dog engaging a fabric at one side of said needle for feeding the fabric to said needle; and a second feed mechanism, operable simultaneously with said first feed mechanism, including a second feed-dog movable in a path transverse to the path of movement of the first mentioned feed-dog and arranged to engage each portion of the fabric after it has been shifted to the needle by the first feed-dog, said two feed mechanisms acting as a composite feed to move the fabric to and away from the needle in a path approximating a right angle.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a first feeding mechanism including a first feed-dog engaging a fabric at one side of said needle for feeding the fabric to said needle; a second feed mechanism, operable simultaneously with said first feed mechanism, in-

cluding a second feed-dog movable in a pathtransverse to the path of movement of the first mentioned feed-dog and arranged to engage the fabric after it has been fed to the needle by the first feed-dog, said two feed mechanisms acting as a composite feed to move the fabric to and away from the needle in a path approximating a right angle; and means to cause the second feed-dog to have a greater feed movement than the first feed-dog.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination comprising stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding mechanism including a first feeding element for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding mechanism including a second feeding element for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism; and an element affording a guiding edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of both of said feeding elements and substantially at the intersection of said paths for guiding the fabric from the first feeding element to the second feeding element.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination comprising stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding mechanism including a first feeding element for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding mechanism including a second feeding element for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism; an element affording a guiding edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of both of said feeding elements and substantially at the intersection of said paths for guiding the fabric from the first feeding element to the second feeding element; and means to cause the second feeding mechanism to feed the fabric faster than the first feed stitch forming mechanism, a first feeding mechanism including a first feed-dog for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism;

a second feeding mechanism including a second feed-dog for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechnaism; a presser foot overlying .each of said feed dogs and cooperating therewith to effect feed of the fabric; and an element carried by one of said presser feet and affording a guiding edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of each of said feed-dogs and substantially at the intersection of said paths for guiding the fabric from the first feed-dog to the second feeddog.

8. ma sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding mechanism including a first feed-dog for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding mechanism including a second feed-dog for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism; a presser device overlying each of said feed-dogs and cooperating therewith to effect feed of the fabric, one of said presser devices being arranged beneath the fabric adjacent the first feed-dog and above the fabric adjacent the second feed-dog and affording a turning edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of both of said feed-dogs and substantially at the intersection of said paths about which the fabric is turned in passing from the first feeddog to the second feed-dog.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding device for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; actuating means for said feeding device; a second feeding device for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding device; and means for actuating the second feeding device from the actuating means for the first feeding device said feeding devices being spaced apart in the path of travel of the fabric and operative substantially simultaneously to feed the fabric in a path approximating a right angle.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding device for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; actuating means for said feeding device; a second feeding device for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding device; means for actuating the second feeding device from the actuating means for the first feeding device and simultaneously therewith; and means for varying the feed stroke of one feed-dog relative to the feed stroke of the other feed-dog.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism; a first feeding device for feeding a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding device spaced from the first feeding device in the path of travel of the fabric and operative substantially simultaneously with the first feeding device for feeding the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding device; and actuating means common to both of said feeding devices for simultaneously raising and lowering them and for simultaneously giving them their feeding strokes in transverse directions thereby to cause the fabric to be fed through said machine in a path approximating a right angle.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a first feed-dog for moving a fabric to said stitch forming mechanism; a feed-bar supporting said feed-dog; means for reciprocating said feed-bar; means for giving said feed-bar rising and falling movements; a second feed-dog for moving the fabric away from said stitch forming mechanism in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeddog; a second feed-bar supporting said second feed-dog, said second feed-bar being connected with the first feed-bar and partaking of the rising and fallingmovements thereof; and means including a bell-crank lever connected with said second feed-bar and with the reciprocating means for said first feed-bar, for reciprocating the second feed-bar.

13. A sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism including a needle; a first feeding mechanism for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding mechanism operative simultaneously with the first feeding mechanism and spaced therefrom in the path of travel of the fabric for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by the first feed mechanism; and an element affording a fabric guiding edge located adjacent the path of movement of said needle and arranged at an angle to the feed movement of one of said feed mechanisms, said needle being adapted to engage the fabric as it passes over said guiding edge.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, with a first feeding mechanism including a first feed-dog for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism; a second feeding mechanism including a second feed-dog for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism; a presser foot overlying each of said feed-dogs and cooperating therewith to effect feed of the fabric; an element carried by one of said presser feet and affording a guiding edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of both of said feed-dogs and substantially at the intersection of said paths for guiding the fabric from the first feed-dog to the second feed-dog; and means for automatically shifting said guiding edge laterally relative to said needle during the operation of the machine.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a first feeding mechanism for moving a fabric relative to said stitch forming mechanism, a second feeding mechanism for moving the fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism; a presser device overlying each of said feed mechanisms and. cooperating therewith to effect feed of the fabric, one of said presser devices also affording a turning edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of both of said feeddogs and substantially at the intersection of said paths about which the fabric is turned in passing from the first feed mechanism to the second feed mechanism; and means for automatically effecting a relative lateral shift between said needle and said edge to cause the needle to engage and to miss the fabric folded thereover in a predetermined sequence during operation of themachine.

16. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, means for feeding fabric to said stitch forming mechanism in one path and away from the stitch forming mechanism in a path transverse to the first named path; an inclined turning edge about which the fabric is passed in changing its paths of movement, said needle being adapted during certain ones of its reciprocations to en'- gage the fabric where it passes over said turning edge, and means to effect a relative lateral movement between said edge and the needle to cause the needle to miss the fabric in certain others of its reciprocations. r

1'7. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, means for feeding fabric to said stitch forming mechanism in one path and away from said stitch forming mechanism in a path transverse to the first named path; an inclined turning edge about which the fabric is passed in changing its path of movement, saidneedle being adapted to engage the fabric where it passes over said turning edge; and means to adjust the position of said edge relative to the path of movement of the needle in accordance with the thickness of the fabric.

18. A sewing machine adapted for so-called blind stitching, comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, means for feeding fabric to said stitch forming mechanism in one path and away from said needle in a path transverse to the first named path; a member having an edge about which the fabric is folded in changing its direction of movement, said edge being arranged adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted to engage the fabric folded over said edge by entering and emerging from the same side thereof without passing completely therethrough, thereby to form a blind stitch; and means acting during continuous operation of the machine to effect relative lateral movements between said edge and said needle to cause the needle to engage the fabric only on predetermined ones of its reciprocations.

19. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; feeding mechanism; a rocking member located beneath said work plate; a presser device located above said work plate and supported by said rocking member; a fabric folding member carried by said presser device and located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted in one position of said presser device to engage the fabric folded over said folding member; and means cyclically to actuate said rocking member, and thereby said presser device and the folding member carried thereby, to cause the needle to engage and to miss the fabric folded over said folding member in a predetermined cycle.

20. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; fabric feeding mechanism; a movable member located beneath said work plate; a flexible rod carried by said, movable member; a combined presser device and fabric folding member supported upon said flexible rod; means to actuate said movable member and the fabric folding member carried thereby periodically to position the fabric passing around said fabric folding needle; feeding mechanism; a rocking member journaled beneath said work plate; a presser device located above said work plate and cooperating with said feed mechanism, said presser device being carried by said rocking member; a fabric folding element provided by said presser device and located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted in one position ofsaid element to engage the fabric folded over the edge thereof; and a member moved in timed relation with the reciprocations of said needle and connected to actuate said rocking member and the presser device carried thereby at predetermined times, thereby to cause said needle to engage and to miss the fabric in a predetermined cycle.

22. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; feeding mechanism; a rocking member journaled beneath said work plate; a presser device located above said work plate and cooperating with said feed mechanism, said presser device being carried by said rocking member; a fabric folding element provided by said presser device and located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted in one position of said element to engage the fabric folded over the edge thereof; and a rotary cam device connected to actuate said rocking member, presser device and folding element in a predetermined cycle, thereby to cause the fabric folded over said folding element periodically to be placed in line with and to one side of the path of reciprocation of said needle.

23. A sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; fabric feeding mechanism; a presser device cooperating with said feeding mechanism and providing a folding edge for a fabric adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted, in one position of said edge, to engage the fabric folded thereover; a rockable element supporting said presser device; a rotary member having cam portions acting to move said element thereby so to place said fabric folding edge relathe path of reciprocation of said needle; and

means acting in opposition to said resilient means to limit the retracting movement of said edge.

24. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism including a reciproeating needle; feeding mechanism; a rockable member located mainly beneath said work plate; a presser device located above said work plate and yieldingly supported by said rockable member; a fabric folding member carried by said presser device and located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted in one position of said presser device to engage the fabric folded over said folding member; means cyclically to actuate said rockable member and thereby said presser device and the folding member carried thereby, to cause the needle to engage and to miss the fabric folded over said member in a predetermined cycle; and means for flexing the support for said presser device thereby to vary the position of the presser device relative to said rockable member.

25. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; feeding mechanism; a rockable member located mainly beneath said work plate;

a presser device located above said work plate and flexibly supported by said rockable member; a fabric folding member carried by said presser device and located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle, the needle being adapted in one position of said presser device to engage the fabric folded over said folding member; means cyclically to actuate said rockable member and thereby said presser device and the folding member carried thereby, to cause the needle to engage and to miss the fabric folded over said member in a predetermined cycle; and manual means for deflecting said presser device relative to its supporting member thereby to vary the position of said folding member relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle.

26. A sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; 2. first feed mechanism including a first feed-dog located forwardly of said needle; a presser foot overlying said feed-dog and cooperating therewith to effect feeding of a fabric toward said needle; a second feed mechanism including a second feed-dog for moving the fabric away from said needle in a direction transverse to its movement by the first feed-dog; a presser plate overlying a portion of said second feed-dog and providing a fabric folding edge arranged at an angle to the path of movement of each of said feeddogs for guiding the fabric from the first feed-dog to the second feed-dog; and'an auxiliary presser foot yieldingly supported on said presser plate behind said needle and overlying a portion of said second feed-dog.

27. A sewing machine for rolling and stitching the marginal portion of a fabric, comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a hemmer arranged in advance of said needle for rolling the marginal portion of the fabric; a first feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric and its rolled edge toward said needle; a fabric guiding and reversing plate located adjacent the path of reciprocation of said needle and arranged at an angle to the path of said feeding mechaanism, said needle being adapted to engage said fabric and its rolled edge as they pass around said guiding and reversing plate thereby to stitch the rolled edge to the fabric; and a second feed ing mechanism located beneath said guiding plate and serving to feed the stitched fabric in a direction transverse to its movement by said first feeding mechanism.

28. A sewing machine. for rolling and stitching the marginal portion of a fabric, comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a hemmer arranged in advance of said needle for rolling the marginal portion of the fabric; a plate underlying said hemmer and having an inclined edge, adjacent the delivery end of said hammer, about which said fabric and its rolled edge are folded, the needle being adapted to engage said fabric as it passes around said inclined edge; and a guide located at the underside of said plate for positioning said rolled edge relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle.

29. A sewing machine for rolling and stitching the marginal portion of a fabric, comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a hemmer arranged in advance of said needle for rolling the marginal portion of the fabric; a plate underlying said hemmer and having an inclined edge, adjacent the delivery end of said hemmer, about which said fabric and its rolled edge are folded, the needle being adapted to engage said fabric as it passes around said in clined edge; a guide adjustably mounted on said plate for positioning said rolled edge relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle; and means for adjusting the position of said guide.

30. A sewing machine comprising stitch forming mechanism, fabric feeding mechanism including a plurality of feed-dogs for feeding a fabric toward and away from said stitch forming mechanism; a plurality of spring pressed compensating presser devices cooperating with said feeddogs; means to vary the relative pressures of said presser devices, said presser feet being so arranged that one engages one side of the fabric adjacent one feed-dog and the other engages the opposite side of the fabric adjacent the other feed-dog; and means to invert the fabric as it is passing from one feed-dog to the other feed-dog.

31. A sewing machine comprising a work supporting plate; stitch forming mechanism, fabric feeding mechanism including two separate feeddogs each located mainly beneath said work supporting plate, means for giving to said feed-dogs feeding movements in transversely arranged 100 paths for advancing a fabric through the machine in an angular path; a first presser foot engaging one side of the fabric and holding it in contact with one of said feed-dogs; and a second presser foot engaging the opposite side of 105 the fabric to hold it in engagement with the other feed-dog.

32. A sewing machine for rolling and stitching the marginal portion of a fabric, comprising stitch forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle; a hemmer arranged in advance of said needle for rolling the marginal portion of the fabric; a plate having an inclined edge about which the fabric and its rolled edge are folded, the needle being adapted to engage said fabric as it passes around said inclined fabric folding edge; and an adjustable edge guide engaging the fabric after it passes said hemmer and adapted to position the rolled edge of the fabric relative to the path of reciprocation of the needle.

33. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism; fabric folding means adapted, during the feed of a fabric, to fold the marginal portion thereof upwardly, over and inwardly to form a hem; a first fabric feeding 125 mechanism located below the work plate and adapted to advance the fabric through said folding means; and a second feeding mechanism also located below said work plate and engaging the folded portion of said hem and coacting with the first feed mechanism to feed the fabric through the machine.

34. A sewing machine comprising a work plate; stitch forming mechanism; fabricffolding means adapted, during the feed of a fabric, to fold 135 the marginal portion thereof upwardly, over and inwardly to form a hem; a first fabric feeding mechanism located below the work plate and adapted to advance the fabric through said folding means; a second feeding mechanism also 140 located below said work plate and engaging the folded portion of said hem and coacting with the first feed mechanism to feed the fabric through the machine; and means for varying the feed movement of one of said feed mechanisms 14 relative to the other.

' ALBERT H. DE VOE. 

